We had not been to Greece before and did not know the language, though we learnt basic words. People were so friendly and helpful in Athens, not jjust the family renting us the flat, often approaching us to offer help without prompting. A few showed that they were literally willing to go out of their way to help us without any selfish motive . We have spent and enjoyed time in a number of other countries over some decades and indeed visited Italy and France during the same holiday so we can readily compare the hospitality we received with other experiences.We felt great sympathy for the turmoil now afflicting Greece and learnt from some of our contacts there how tough things are for them, but they showed no resentment towards us coming from a more favoured country.

It was a lovely flat with plenty of room for the two of us and for our daughter when she joined us. The bedrooms are at the back so it was quiet at night and at the front you can sit on the balcony if and when you wish, looking out onto the street.

We liked Pangrati itself, a busy neighbourhood with plenty of small shops to buy food and a number of bars and restaurants.

We especially enjoyed going to the local bakery on Alketou opposite a basketball court. From the front door of the apartment block turn left, first left and first right. The manager speaks good English and French and their cheese and spinach slices are fabulous. The shop is also close to a bus/ "trolley" stop which you can use to go into the city centre, getting off just before Syndagma Square. We also walked to and from the centre in thirty minutes or so.

We went on a number of occasions to one small restaurant/ takeaway whose name translates as "The lazy boy and his friends" we were told.

It is on Imitou; outside the building turn left(as above) but walk along Pyrou crossing over Damareos and goi to the juction with Imitou. Cross the road, turn right and walk some yards along.This place has a few tables between the street railings and the restaurant/ cafe itself. Their Greek salad is a treat and we mostly had pork or chicken with it.The street is very busy but stimulating.

Athens has plenty of sites and allow several hours for the Acropolis as the whole area is worth pottering around in.

There are two monastaries on the outside of the city.We got to one using a bus route followed by an hour walking uphill, but it is worthwhile.

We will remember the kindness of the people as much as the magical setting.