Villa Asmara

The delightful Villa Asmara casts its spell long before you arrive. After meandering along temple-lined village streets, through swathes of emerald rice fields, past rolling waves breaking on giant rocky outcrops then surging up the beach of volcanic black sand, the road ends at an unassuming Balinese entrance. Beyond, a series of stepping stones leads across a pond flanked by fountains flowing from two large pots, and into the large living area of the main pavilion. Within moments, you are reclining on huge wicker sofas sipping ice-cold juice and nibbling pisang goring (fried bananas) dipped in honey – and you are utterly charmed!

Villa Asmara’s frangipani-scented garden is bursting with tropical blooms – scarlet lobster claw heliconia, crimson Cordylines and red torch ginger are dive-bombed by iridescent-winged dragonflies. The same palette spices the living area, colouring terracotta and claret cushions to curl up on, fire-red seat pads on the dining room chairs, and sprays of freshly picked flowers trailing from vases. Wherever the eye falls, there’s something fascinating to look at – a Chinese opium bed here, a Dutch colonial bench there, hand-carved Papuan totem tucked away in the corner, four-poster beds in the guestrooms. And, shimmering beyond the broad arches of the living area, a 14m swimming pool commanded by a Buddha head statue from whose crown cascades a fountain of water.